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Thank you to the people who have asked me to re-run this CAL. It was not something that I had thought of
This Crochet A Long is completely free on my blog. You will be able to follow along with all the instalments on the website. Or alternatively you can buy the pretty, printable, premium FULL VERSIONPDF to add to your pattern collection while supporting a small business owner. If you are following the blog, you will need to keep checking the page on the dates for its release.
Why should I buy the PDF version?
This is a question that I get asked A LOT. So, I will try my best to let you know why I think the PDF trumps the web version.
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Printable. Easy to manage and print out so you can take with you anywhere.
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No ads anywhere.
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It is pretty. I do spend a little time trying to get it to look just right so that not only do you have the functional pattern but it’s nice to look at also.
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You get both US and UK terminology.
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It supports me and enables me to continue to create content for you to enjoy.
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Full pattern, no waiting around for updates.
Click the button below to buy your own copy now. It’s just $3.75 USD or £3 GBP!
I really don’t want to buy the PDF version.
That’s ok, I totally understand and best of all, you don’t have to. You can still make the whole blanket from the free version of the pattern on my website!
I don’t want to buy anything BUT I want to support you, is that possible?
Yes! Very much so and I am very much grateful for this. You can share the website with your crochet friends. Share your makes on Facebook Groups and on Instagram and mention me. Word of mouth is the very best way to help support me and get the Flo’s Crafty Crochet name out there. I also have a Buy Me A Coffee button at the bottom of the page which is literally just that, the equivalent of buying me a drink lol
Where can I buy the PDF?
You can buy the PDF by clicking the button below but also on:-
You can also keep up to date with everything that is going on in Flo’s Crafty Crochet’s world by following Flo’s Crafty Crochet on Facebook. You can also join my dedicated group on Facebook. It is a great group to come and share your makes or ask any questions you may have.
Thank you as always for supporting me every step of the way. Right lets get at it.
( ) and * * can both contain repeat instructions and repeats are in total.
( ) rep X times indicates the total number of times that sequence will be repeated including the 1st time you work though what is in the brackets.
CH2 at the beginning of Round 1 does not count as a stitch
All bobbles are worked on the wrong side.
To make a bobble stitch: *Yarn over and insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops*. Repeat * * 5 times. You will have 6 loops in total on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all loops on the hook. For this particular blanket please see the next information point on colour changing.
Each bobble is created with a contrast colour. When finishing the last stitch before the bobble, pull through the contrast colour. When finishing the bobble instead of pulling through your contrast colour instead, pull through the main colour to create a clean change.
When making each bobble pull the last stitch tighter than the rest to ensure it pops.
There are many ways to work with 2 colours. Choose one of the following or whatever your prefered method is.
A: Work with bobbins, carrying the yarn only when needed.
B: Work clean colour changes finishing off each colour change and weaving in the ends.
C: Carry the contrast yarn with your main working yarn to reduce the number of ends to weave in and to easily create each bobble.
I use a mixture of all throughout the pattern. The B method will result in less colour bleeding as even with tight tension and ensuring the yarn is worked over correctly I can still see the white bleed through so prefer the ‘cleaness’ of B even if it does result in more ends to weave.
Sections and method I used
Wavy lines, Trees and Stars: A
Snowflakes, Diamonds: B
Bobble line: C
When working your bobble contrasting yarn, move that yarn towards you when finished with it. The side facing you is the wrong side. This will keep the yarn on the correct side to connect with the next bobble rows.
The bobbles are always worked in contrast yarn and the SC always in the main colour unless otherwise stated. However, you may want to work some sections of the pattern in just the contrast colour instead of having to change; this is especially relevant for the single bobble lines and the trees. But always work the beginning and ending SC of each row in the main colour.
Any yarn and matching hook can be used.
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