Highlander Crochet Sleeves

A little boho chic for the festival season!

Highlander Crochet Sleeves

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Ok patience is really, really not my strong suit. I have 2 lovely ladies that are going to take some lovely photos of Highlander so that you can see it being modelled on a real live human…. but can I wait to the weekend…. Well I guess we know the answer to that one now don’t we! I am dying to get to see it on them cos they are gonna rock it! But in the meantime I thought you guys would love to have a go.

I am not just saying this either but this shrug works up lightning fast and the best thing about it is that you can literally use any weight yarn with a corresponding hook in order to create it. The chunkier the yarn, the faster the make. The picture above is King Cole Riot Chunky and can be found here. It can also be quite elegant when made all in the one colour as you can see below. These are my testers pink granny sleeves. Claire and Kirsty.

Lynne Duffin Sidar Crofter

Kirsty-Emma Walker 

Hayfield baby chunky  shade 0408

Aren’t they all just fabulous!! I love how they are all so very unique but all gorgeous!

Sallyanne Fisher

Loops and Threads Impressions  Amethyst

If you would like to purchase a printable ad free PDF that helps support me as a crochet designer then there are some links below for you. The free pattern below is in US terms only. UK terms and full colour descriptions are available in the PDF version.

280 meters of Chunky weight yarn

I used King Cole Riot

(However this pattern works with any weight yarn and corresponding hook size)

6mm hook

Stitch marker (Did you know I have a whole range of my own in the store here and in my Etsy Store?)

Tapestry needle


Abbreviations – US terms

Single Crochet – SC

Double Crochet – DC

Chain(s) – CH(S)

Space – SP

Skip – SK

Slip Stitch – SL ST

Stitch(es) – ST(S)

Picot – Pic


Not necessary for this project











When creating your initial starting chain it is essential to take into consideration how ‘springy’ your yarn is.  For example due to the wool blend Riot is a very forgiving yarn and it was necessary to reduce the amount of starting chains.  Try to pull your yarn taut but not tight when making your initial judgement for size. Other brands will not have as much give in them and will require a little more room, this is created with adding some additional chains at the end of measuring

As each garment will differ no stitch counts will be provided. As any yarn can be used to create your sleeves.  The 2 pictures below show a DK weight yarn and a chunky yarn.  4mm was used for DK and 6mm for Chunky.

Photo 1 is DK weight and photo 2 is Chunky.

This crochet top can be made to any size.   Simply measure bust size, halve it, chain in multiples of 4 until you meet that length then add 5.  Also remember how ‘springy’ your yarn is and adjust accordingly.  (Paid version printable version on Etsy – Ravelry )




Round 1:  Chain the length required.  Then DC into the 10th CH from hook, (counts as a DC and CH3), *CH3, SK3, DC in next* rep * * to the end of the CH. CH6, turn.

Round 2:  DC into the 1st CH3 gap, *CH3, DC into next CH 3 gap* rep * * to end. CH6, turn. 

Rep Round 2 for the desired length or 9/10 rows.   This length will be approximately ½ the circumference of the armhole plus the body/underarm join. 

Neck hole/back

We will now work the neck for the next row.  Decide on the size of the head space you would like, whether it is a wide opening or a normal opening.  Personally I prefer it standard rather than too wide.

Working from one side, continue the mesh in either 2/3/4 blocks only (shoulders)  

As a guide for the smaller sizes I work 2, M/L, 3 and larger sizes 4+.

Count the gaps on the other side and add one.  Now count the gaps left behind (these will form the neck hole.  Use stitch markers as a guide if necessary)

Using the following formula work out how many chains are required to bridge the gap.

E.G, I have 8 unworked gaps if I have shoulders of 2 at either side, 8 x 4 + 3 = 35.  My neck hole will be a chain of 35.  Then work across into the gap to complete the shoulders using the mesh stitch.

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Continue working the mesh stitch to create the second side, work each CH ST as you did in the beginning row. 

End when both sides are equal length. Without finishing off continue as below.

Place both sides together by folding along the length of the neck and shoulder. We will now work the sleeves.


Decide on the size of your arm holes as per your prior measurement.  From the end of the row where your yarn is still attached, you will now work up the side of your project.  I slip stitched through 2 mesh squares to create my underarm join and allow for the rest to be my armhole The number you slip stitch will vary based on the number of rows you have worked. 

I then worked the mesh stitch around the outside gap. This gave me approximately 15 mesh squares (will vary based on your starting rows).  I worked them in continuous rounds for approximately 16 rows (this depends on the length of sleeve you  desire and can greatly differ depending on yarn brand)  CH6 to create the first mesh square.  Then work each row without joining just working in the round.

Once the length has been achieved, SC into the next DC and each CH and DC around giving you a firm base to work your end row. SL ST to first SC.

Cuff:- *Pic, SC 3* rep * * around joining with a SL ST to finish off.  

Repeat instructions for the 2nd sleeve.  The sleeves when shaped will naturally take on a flared look.

Fasten off all loose ends.  


 Thank you to all my testers in the Flo’s Crafty Crochet Testers Group.  Your work makes this possible. You all rock!

A special word of thanks to Sallyanne Fisher, Lynne Duffin, Claire Hughes, Kirsty Walker and Suzi Pfer for being a part of the testing process and helping to make this pattern come to life. You can view their wonderful creations below.

Check out my dedicated Facebook group for a growing and active community to share your makes and have some crochet chat.

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